#50

Climbed with the twinkster, twinkytoes, el twinkerooney himself (@Twinkletoes) last night and can confirm he’s a beast of a climber. But also a very nice chap.

I really need to find time to train more. And do better training. Or something.

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#51

:smiley: you’re not bad yourself! You’re about where I was at when I’d been climbing 18 months. Reckon you’ve got the base tendon strength for using a fingerboard and busting out some dead-hangs, based on the purple you did on the comp wall. I did lots of ‘frenchies’* and offset pull-ups to build up back strength around that time as well.

*Pull-up to full lock-off (Hold 5 seconds)
Down then straight up into lock-off with arms at 90 degrees
Down then straight up into lock-off with elbows bent 45 degrees

#52

Unfortunately I am too tall for climbing :crying_cat_face: as I am already pretty high up and people would just be suspicious if I needed to get any higher up.

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#53

Ah yeah, I’d forgotten about Frenchies. I should give those a go again. Have you tried the beastmaker app? It takes you through routines based on the 7/3 second principle.

I do some offset pull-ups already, just by hanging a towel off the pull up bar. I can’t do many, but will try and push for more.

#54

I actually haven’t, but will check it out. Probably need to switch up my training a bit.

#55

Spent yesterday climbing at Curbar in the Peak District in glorious winter sunshine.

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Went up with the aim of trying a V7 climb called Early Doors and dispatched it pleasingly quickly.

Then worked out the sequence for a V8 over a slightly terrifying landing but ran out of power before I could link it together. One to come back to :slight_smile:

I LOVE the peak district in winter.

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Monday Morning Thread
#56

Getting warmed up for a big footless competition. Quite a few international level folks here so I’m going to get schooled. Also trying to not be starstruck by Shauna Coxsey wandering around.

#57

How did you do???

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#58

Did 17/20 climbs :slight_smile: Pretty pleased with that. Then there was a climb just straight up a rope (no feet) where i managed around 15 metres and a ‘fridge hug’ challenge (how long can you dangle off an old fridge by ‘hugging’ it (25 seconds) - those really scuppered my efforts to make the grand final. Dudes in the final were practically running up the rope - just outrageously strong :muscle:

Really good fun. Mix of normal climbs and ninja warrior style things.

#59

pretends to not care about edit to thread title

#60

Alright DiS climbers, how’s it going? Any climbing new year resolutions or goals?

I am feeling very lethargic after a Christmas break but I have my sights set this year on climbing a V9 problem call The Keel at Almscliffe.

Also just started an application for Ninja Warrior season 4. Not sure I’m interesting enough to get on, but seems like a bit of fun.

#61

Alright 'toes!

Keep us posted on Ninja Warrior - this is like pervie being on Countdown, but without a numbers round.

Goals for me are:
-Complete a full set of the red v3-v5 routes at my local centre. They set around 30 problems and I got 20 in this set (so far).
-Try bouldering outdoors.
-Generally get outdoors more; walking, cycling, etc.
Make my crappy knee last another year.

Good luck with the V9!

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#62

Alright gang, how are you all getting on?

I managed to get to the wall 4 days a week while over in San Francisco. Place I was staying near has the highest indoor bouldering I’ve ever seen. Problems tend to be 12-15 moves rather than the 6-7 you find at most UK places, so I’m hoping I’ve built up a bit more power endurance as a result.

Also, check this out from Shauna Coxsey - bear in mind she had shoulder surgery back in August…

#63

I’m doing alright, ta. No major improvements, but still going fairly strong where I am. Feeling a bit weak at the moment due to a persistent cold. Grr!

Not sure I’d be cool with higher bouldering - some of the falls at my centre are already a bit scary.

#64

Hit a new high on Friday by completing a full set of the V3-V5 routes after a reset at my local centre. :muscle:

(I posted about this in the hobbies update thread but that’s turned into Gardeners World)

How’s it going, DiSclimbers?

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#65

Nice!

I’ve now been told by two different people I train with that, based on a big database someone has been building of strength tests, I should be able to climb V11… This makes me happy but also makes me wonder why I am so far off that grade!

Currently just trying to climb much more dynamically and generally be less of a scaredy-cat. Making myself commit to moves I would normally wuss out on particularly at height (as if you’re ever really at height bouldering indoors…).

Desperately want to get outdoors sometime soon. Had one day outside since last May. Of course this will all change when I move up to Leeds :grinning:

#66

V11? That’s nuts!

My main problem with committing to scary moves is what I’ll hit on the way down. If I’m in a standard position, it’s not too bad. If I’m doing that move where you mantle with one hand at full lock and push your other hand up using a high foot (is there a name for that?), or doing a big underflag or something more dynamic, I’m not going down without hitting some holds or a volume on the way. Probably with my face.

Am hopefully going to give outdoor bouldering a go this year. Still doesn’t hold much appeal and my previous outdoor roped sessions didn’t do anything for me.

#67

It feels a bit nuts. But I guess when I did ‘Carnage’ last year in Font, which is f7b+ (a French grade between V8 and V9 - don’t ask…), it took a lot of attempts but at the same time, when it went, it didn’t feel like I was at my absolute physical limit, so maybe V11 is possible? It’s also about finding the right style of climb at that grade - needs to be crimp-heavy rather than a sloper-fest.

Totally agree on the fear of what you’ll hit on the way down. Often more of a problem indoors where someone has thrown a big sticky-outy volume on the next climb over.

Just a form of mantle I think.

Definitely give outdoor bouldering a go. It’s much less hassle than setting up a rope. From where you are you could hit up the peak district pretty easily. Burbage South is possibly the best introductory area. Lemme know if/when you do - I’ll be much closer to the peaks once I move up north :smiley:

#68

My current indoor project

Think the first three moves are close to V8 by themselves, then it gets really hard… :scream:

#69

Nice - those holds look awful! Good luck!

I should do more filming. It feels a bit naff doing it when the centre is busy and at the moment, that’s the only time I get to climb.