Climbing thread 2.0 - big crimpin' 💪 ✊

#341

Usually quite a personal thing but some general advice:

Build up to a technical shoe. I started with Scarpa Velocity for my first year and a bit, then went to La Sportiva Muiras as a more techy shoe and now use Scarpa Instincts.

Don’t go cheap (brands like Red Chili, etc.) because the shoes are crap.

Always try the shoe out. A lot of outdoor clothes places have a little wall to test them on. Most climbing centres will let you test them too.

Scarpa, Evolve and La Sportiva are the best brands IMHO.

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#342

Also important is the sizing varies massively between brands and shoes. An 8 in a Scarpa could be a 10 in La Sportiva.

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#343

I used Sportiva Solutions for a few years but have switched to their Skwama. You probably don’t need something as downturned as that though. Not tried those Scarpas. Can’t go wrong with 5.10 Anasazi’s at a similar price point.

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#344

@sadpunk has given good advice there.
Also consider your style of climbing in comparing shoes - e.g. I am toe-hooking all the time so having rubber rather than fabric on top of the toe is important. I also hate slabs so a stiffer shoe is fine for me.

#345

I’ve started to enjoy some slabs lately - indoors where risk of face-death is far less likely.

I’m sure it’ll pass.

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#346

This slabby one was my fave of a recent comp set.

(seems to have uploaded at a terrible quality)

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#347

Balance! :+1:

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#348

Nice foot swapping

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#349

I love a good foot-swap! :smiley:

#350

Shirt shopping this afternoon. Why does no one cater for those of us with large upper backs and forearms?

#351

I’ve mentioned this before, but the GF has huge problems with this. She struggles to find anything that fits across her shoulders and she’s not even that broad.

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#352

@sadpunk when do you normally go? I’ll be spending some time on call in Notts and might try and get back on it a bit.

#353

YES!

Mon & Fri for defs, I usually do Weds but Weds are rapidly becoming crazy-busy so I’m doing more Tuesdays.

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#354

Awesome! Was in Notts today but had do go back to Lincs. I’ll let you know next time I’m around, and dig my old shoes out

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#355

Just had a lovely afternoon at Earl Crag. Did a 7a+ called Handy Andy which was a crimpy treat and made a very quick repeat of a 7b I climbed last summer. Decent.

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#356

Got out on Saturday and managed my second ever 7c (v9). Worked it in 2 halves 10 days earlier then linked it 3rd go of the session. Bit of an odd one - climbs really nicely but looks quite shit as half of the moves are on a roof a metre above the ground!

Didn’t feel like I was climbing at my limit (note me cutting loose around the crux which is not the beta!) - just need to find the right 7c+ now…

Also, 18 degrees out in mid-Feb… This has quite good holds for the grade but anything on small crimps felt like sweaty garbage. Bring back the cold!

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#357

Sweet! That crux move looks well hard! :muscle:

I need to train more roof stuff, it’s not something I’m good at.

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#358

Why has the title of this thread changed? I really enjoyed “big crumpets”

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#359

taken the plunge and bought a climbing wall. Am excited
https://www.wickentoys.co.uk/plum-climbing-pyramid-wooden-play-centre-new.html

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#360

Ha! Sorry, it’s been irking me ever since it got changed originally. Mainly because the original big crimpin’ is a solid 8/10 pun

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