#61

Alright 'toes!

Keep us posted on Ninja Warrior - this is like pervie being on Countdown, but without a numbers round.

Goals for me are:
-Complete a full set of the red v3-v5 routes at my local centre. They set around 30 problems and I got 20 in this set (so far).
-Try bouldering outdoors.
-Generally get outdoors more; walking, cycling, etc.
Make my crappy knee last another year.

Good luck with the V9!

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#62

Alright gang, how are you all getting on?

I managed to get to the wall 4 days a week while over in San Francisco. Place I was staying near has the highest indoor bouldering I’ve ever seen. Problems tend to be 12-15 moves rather than the 6-7 you find at most UK places, so I’m hoping I’ve built up a bit more power endurance as a result.

Also, check this out from Shauna Coxsey - bear in mind she had shoulder surgery back in August…

#63

I’m doing alright, ta. No major improvements, but still going fairly strong where I am. Feeling a bit weak at the moment due to a persistent cold. Grr!

Not sure I’d be cool with higher bouldering - some of the falls at my centre are already a bit scary.

#64

Hit a new high on Friday by completing a full set of the V3-V5 routes after a reset at my local centre. :muscle:

(I posted about this in the hobbies update thread but that’s turned into Gardeners World)

How’s it going, DiSclimbers?

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#65

Nice!

I’ve now been told by two different people I train with that, based on a big database someone has been building of strength tests, I should be able to climb V11… This makes me happy but also makes me wonder why I am so far off that grade!

Currently just trying to climb much more dynamically and generally be less of a scaredy-cat. Making myself commit to moves I would normally wuss out on particularly at height (as if you’re ever really at height bouldering indoors…).

Desperately want to get outdoors sometime soon. Had one day outside since last May. Of course this will all change when I move up to Leeds :grinning:

#66

V11? That’s nuts!

My main problem with committing to scary moves is what I’ll hit on the way down. If I’m in a standard position, it’s not too bad. If I’m doing that move where you mantle with one hand at full lock and push your other hand up using a high foot (is there a name for that?), or doing a big underflag or something more dynamic, I’m not going down without hitting some holds or a volume on the way. Probably with my face.

Am hopefully going to give outdoor bouldering a go this year. Still doesn’t hold much appeal and my previous outdoor roped sessions didn’t do anything for me.

#67

It feels a bit nuts. But I guess when I did ‘Carnage’ last year in Font, which is f7b+ (a French grade between V8 and V9 - don’t ask…), it took a lot of attempts but at the same time, when it went, it didn’t feel like I was at my absolute physical limit, so maybe V11 is possible? It’s also about finding the right style of climb at that grade - needs to be crimp-heavy rather than a sloper-fest.

Totally agree on the fear of what you’ll hit on the way down. Often more of a problem indoors where someone has thrown a big sticky-outy volume on the next climb over.

Just a form of mantle I think.

Definitely give outdoor bouldering a go. It’s much less hassle than setting up a rope. From where you are you could hit up the peak district pretty easily. Burbage South is possibly the best introductory area. Lemme know if/when you do - I’ll be much closer to the peaks once I move up north :smiley:

#68

My current indoor project

Think the first three moves are close to V8 by themselves, then it gets really hard… :scream:

#69

Nice - those holds look awful! Good luck!

I should do more filming. It feels a bit naff doing it when the centre is busy and at the moment, that’s the only time I get to climb.

#70

They’re at the perfect intersection of being utterly dismal but still slightly positive.

Yeah, it’s impossible not to feel like an egotistical chump if you film when the centre’s busy. But watching that one back it becomes apparent that my right foot is utterly useless on the move I fall on, which is much less obvious when I’m on the wall. So it’s definitely worth doing from time to time.

#71

10 days and 4 more sessions. I’ve done one more move on my project…
Was working on it last weekend with a guy who climbed 9a on lead last year and he couldn’t do one of the moves so there is no hope at all for me!

#72

Don’t be so defeatist - you’ve got this! :muscle:
Different people climb better on different stuff.

I’m currently riddled with a cold that would probably kill a normal man. I’m going climbing tonight, which may be a really bad idea, but I missed Friday’s session so I’m in need of a fix. I’ve been climbing really well lately too, so feel like I need to keep up the momentum.

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#73

Huge news in the world of climbing today.

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#74

Did a lovely roof climb yesterday.

#75

Skills!

I particularly enjoyed the shake outs :slight_smile:

#76

:smiley: Couldn’t work out a way not to cut loose repeatedly through the roof, so shaking out was essential (particularly after missing wildly at my attempt to stick the heel hook!). Also, I LOVE shaking out in that sort of position - feel like an absolute baller.

#77

Alright @sadpunk et al, how’s it going?
Snuck in a cheeky lunchtime climb today. Not normally a fan of big slopey holds but this was :ok_hand: Excuse the (minimal) attire - that centre is roasting.

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#78

Alright crusher!

I love slopey slopes, but that’s a bit much :wink:
Was that problem fairly fresh? Most slopers are horrific after a week of being on a busy wall.

Climbing is going well, but improvement has slowed right down which is annoying. Been working circuits to improve my endurance so I can get more in each session. Now I find my hand skin tires before anything else. Stupid hand skin.

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#79

Like 3 weeks old - I’d been avoiding it because it looked like a shambles, but all of the holds were surprisingly positive in the end (apart from that middle pinch before the second jump - that may as well not have been there…).

I’m in a bit of a training rut at the moment. Feel like I’m just getting really really good at a very specific set of movements. Looking forward to having a new local wall once we move oop to Leeds with new holds rather than the ones I’ve been climbing on for years. Plus lovely lovely outdoor climbing.

#80

Is that the Depot in Leeds? I love the Depot in Nottm. It’s ace!

I know what you mean though, I sometimes go through to a centre in Derby and am instantly thrown by the lack of familiar holds and setting style.

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