Climbing thread 2.0 - big crimpin' šŸ’Ŗ āœŠ

Alright 'toes!

Keep us posted on Ninja Warrior - this is like pervie being on Countdown, but without a numbers round.

Goals for me are:
-Complete a full set of the red v3-v5 routes at my local centre. They set around 30 problems and I got 20 in this set (so far).
-Try bouldering outdoors.
-Generally get outdoors more; walking, cycling, etc.
Make my crappy knee last another year.

Good luck with the V9!

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Alright gang, how are you all getting on?

I managed to get to the wall 4 days a week while over in San Francisco. Place I was staying near has the highest indoor bouldering Iā€™ve ever seen. Problems tend to be 12-15 moves rather than the 6-7 you find at most UK places, so Iā€™m hoping Iā€™ve built up a bit more power endurance as a result.

Also, check this out from Shauna Coxsey - bear in mind she had shoulder surgery back in Augustā€¦

Iā€™m doing alright, ta. No major improvements, but still going fairly strong where I am. Feeling a bit weak at the moment due to a persistent cold. Grr!

Not sure Iā€™d be cool with higher bouldering - some of the falls at my centre are already a bit scary.

Hit a new high on Friday by completing a full set of the V3-V5 routes after a reset at my local centre. :muscle:

(I posted about this in the hobbies update thread but thatā€™s turned into Gardeners World)

Howā€™s it going, DiSclimbers?

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Nice!

Iā€™ve now been told by two different people I train with that, based on a big database someone has been building of strength tests, I should be able to climb V11ā€¦ This makes me happy but also makes me wonder why I am so far off that grade!

Currently just trying to climb much more dynamically and generally be less of a scaredy-cat. Making myself commit to moves I would normally wuss out on particularly at height (as if youā€™re ever really at height bouldering indoorsā€¦).

Desperately want to get outdoors sometime soon. Had one day outside since last May. Of course this will all change when I move up to Leeds :grinning:

V11? Thatā€™s nuts!

My main problem with committing to scary moves is what Iā€™ll hit on the way down. If Iā€™m in a standard position, itā€™s not too bad. If Iā€™m doing that move where you mantle with one hand at full lock and push your other hand up using a high foot (is there a name for that?), or doing a big underflag or something more dynamic, Iā€™m not going down without hitting some holds or a volume on the way. Probably with my face.

Am hopefully going to give outdoor bouldering a go this year. Still doesnā€™t hold much appeal and my previous outdoor roped sessions didnā€™t do anything for me.

It feels a bit nuts. But I guess when I did ā€˜Carnageā€™ last year in Font, which is f7b+ (a French grade between V8 and V9 - donā€™t askā€¦), it took a lot of attempts but at the same time, when it went, it didnā€™t feel like I was at my absolute physical limit, so maybe V11 is possible? Itā€™s also about finding the right style of climb at that grade - needs to be crimp-heavy rather than a sloper-fest.

Totally agree on the fear of what youā€™ll hit on the way down. Often more of a problem indoors where someone has thrown a big sticky-outy volume on the next climb over.

Just a form of mantle I think.

Definitely give outdoor bouldering a go. Itā€™s much less hassle than setting up a rope. From where you are you could hit up the peak district pretty easily. Burbage South is possibly the best introductory area. Lemme know if/when you do - Iā€™ll be much closer to the peaks once I move up north :smiley:

My current indoor project

Think the first three moves are close to V8 by themselves, then it gets really hardā€¦ :scream:

Nice - those holds look awful! Good luck!

I should do more filming. It feels a bit naff doing it when the centre is busy and at the moment, thatā€™s the only time I get to climb.

Theyā€™re at the perfect intersection of being utterly dismal but still slightly positive.

Yeah, itā€™s impossible not to feel like an egotistical chump if you film when the centreā€™s busy. But watching that one back it becomes apparent that my right foot is utterly useless on the move I fall on, which is much less obvious when Iā€™m on the wall. So itā€™s definitely worth doing from time to time.

10 days and 4 more sessions. Iā€™ve done one more move on my projectā€¦
Was working on it last weekend with a guy who climbed 9a on lead last year and he couldnā€™t do one of the moves so there is no hope at all for me!

Donā€™t be so defeatist - youā€™ve got this! :muscle:
Different people climb better on different stuff.

Iā€™m currently riddled with a cold that would probably kill a normal man. Iā€™m going climbing tonight, which may be a really bad idea, but I missed Fridayā€™s session so Iā€™m in need of a fix. Iā€™ve been climbing really well lately too, so feel like I need to keep up the momentum.

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Huge news in the world of climbing today.

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Did a lovely roof climb yesterday.

Skills!

I particularly enjoyed the shake outs :slight_smile:

:smiley: Couldnā€™t work out a way not to cut loose repeatedly through the roof, so shaking out was essential (particularly after missing wildly at my attempt to stick the heel hook!). Also, I LOVE shaking out in that sort of position - feel like an absolute baller.

Alright @sadpunk et al, howā€™s it going?
Snuck in a cheeky lunchtime climb today. Not normally a fan of big slopey holds but this was :ok_hand: Excuse the (minimal) attire - that centre is roasting.

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Alright crusher!

I love slopey slopes, but thatā€™s a bit much :wink:
Was that problem fairly fresh? Most slopers are horrific after a week of being on a busy wall.

Climbing is going well, but improvement has slowed right down which is annoying. Been working circuits to improve my endurance so I can get more in each session. Now I find my hand skin tires before anything else. Stupid hand skin.

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Like 3 weeks old - Iā€™d been avoiding it because it looked like a shambles, but all of the holds were surprisingly positive in the end (apart from that middle pinch before the second jump - that may as well not have been thereā€¦).

Iā€™m in a bit of a training rut at the moment. Feel like Iā€™m just getting really really good at a very specific set of movements. Looking forward to having a new local wall once we move oop to Leeds with new holds rather than the ones Iā€™ve been climbing on for years. Plus lovely lovely outdoor climbing.

Is that the Depot in Leeds? I love the Depot in Nottm. Itā€™s ace!

I know what you mean though, I sometimes go through to a centre in Derby and am instantly thrown by the lack of familiar holds and setting style.

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