Yep, that’s gonna be my first port of call.
Oh shit, this is so sad
Yeah sad news indeed, read about I’m a few years back and started watching some of his videos on YouTube.
Really pretty incredible what he achieved.
Of all the extreme stuff he basically did with his eyes closed and then died on what basically sounds like a recce. Sucha shame.
Big loss to the community. Truly an inspiration and seemed like an all-round good guy. Well worth reading about his achievements if anyone has even a peripheral interest in mountaineering. RIP Ueli.
In positive climbing news, I moved up to Leeds on Friday and got outdoors on both Saturday and Sunday. First up was Almscliffe where I met a few nice local randomers, made quick work of a V5, then started the slow process of working on two V8s and my big V9 project which contains the most awkward move I’ve ever come across. Didn’t manage any of them, but looking forward to making progress over the next few sessions
On Sunday I went to Caley (10 mins from our house!) which has the roughest gritstone I’ve ever climbed on. My skin needs to toughen up a lot! Again, began the slow process of working a couple of V8/9s, scared myself silly at the top of a highball V3 slab, and ticked a nice V6 problem. That first rail is outrageously sharp - could barely hang off it!
So so pleased to be so near the great outdoors. Was just lovely being outside!
State of this highball climb by Nina Williams! My palms are a sweaty mess after watching it. And to think I backed off a highball V0 on Sunday 3/4 of the way up
Yeah, fuck that. That’s far too high! The best spotter and mats in the world aren’t helping you at that height.
Did you see Shauna Coxsey’s videos over the weekend? She just seems to get more incredible each competition.
Yes, she’s on fire at the moment, although her posts did spoiler the comp for me as I was planning on watching the replay! Delighted for her - remember watching back in 2012 when she had bundles of raw talent but was very hit-and-miss. Seems to have developed an amazing mental fortitude over the last few seasons. Really looking forward to seeing how Janja Garnbret develops as well - looks like she could be as complete a climber as Adam Ondra in terms of competing at lead and bouldering.
Hello fellow crushers!
Feeling a bit low about climbing at the mo after getting absolutely battered by some new routes at my centre.
I think I need to hit the hang board and campus boards more seriously.
How’s life up North, @AphexTwinkletoes?
Sometimes, sets of routes are just hard, I think. Indoor grading is pretty sporadic, plus it’s the sweaty season which adds a grade to everything you need friction to climb! I find when I have a session like that, I climb way too quickly, don’t give myself time to recover, and burn out in an hour. I can see the signs a mile off, but I can’t change anything! Could be worth switching up your training though, particularly if you’re pushing into V5/6. That’s the right time to get more into fingerboards and (carefully) campus boards.
I’m currently back down in London for the TV’s final week at work. Then I’m up north full time from this weekend, at which point I am going to check out my new local, the Leeds Depot. After the two days I spent climbing outdoors my first weekend there, I have a long list of projects that I’m going to tailor my training around. Psyched to have some specific things to train for rather than just getting really strong at one-arming off crimps (not that it isn’t an incredibly useful thing to have in my locker…). Was going through the motions a bit earlier in the year, but having these targets is making me properly motivated. Trying to set myself problems on the training board which replicate the climbs below that are on my ticklist:
The Keel - 7c (V9)
The Crystal Method - 7b+ (V8/9)
Blockbuster - 7b (V8)
Did you see any of the world cup in Japan? Been saying it for a while, but Janja Garnbret is the new Adam Ondra. Strong as they come, but also just seems to see climbs differently to everyone else - would love to see her try some hard outdoor boulders and routes.
Yeah, just got my limitations highlighted and was surprised. I’m ok crimping on a straight wall but even a slight overhang seems to make them significantly harder for me. Not helped by watching others dance up the problems easily. So time to fire up the beastmaker app and also hit the campus board.
Those projects should certainly keep you busy! The Keel looks particularly beasty.
Only bits I’ve seen from Japan are Shauna’s climbs, she was struggling in the heat but was still absolutely amazing. Just been watching Janja Garnbret smashing it on YouTube. Christ.
Top campus action!
Amazing! Got a window of sunshine scheduled tomorrow so hoping to get outside in after work to fall off some of my projects.
I got out to Almscliffe yesterday evening and destroyed myself working out the start to ‘The Keel’, my big V9 project. First dedicated session on it and making some progress. You start in a roof section which hinges on a bizarre hold (shaped like a keel) and a big reach out to the lip. Took about an hour and all my skin and power to work out a body position that worked. Next session will be controlling the move out to the lip from there and then (hopefully) beasting through the big campus move. Definitely starting to feel like it is possible after failing miserably the first session when I had a very quick go on it.
Here’s a little video of one of my favourite warm-up routes.
I got so so close on The Keel yesterday evening. Maybe a centimetre away from hitting the jug (heh) you throw for on the crux move. Such a cool problem and definitely feels doable. Just need to regrow some skin and get a couple of good training sessions in.
I properly smashed my elbow throwing for a big hug (heh) on Wednesday; it collided with a hold on the way up and scraped a big chunk of skin clean off. Gave it a quick wash, went again and nailed it.
(then spent a lot of time wincing, courting sympathy and climbing very timidly, it bled a lot - I think I might need elbow guards)
I’ve started doing hangboard and campus training after my sessions (once a week on each) and you know what? I really suck at hanging and campusing. Which is good as it gives me something to focus on and hopefully see quick improvement in.
New V3-V4 climbs up tonight so the flash challenge is on!
I can’t edit it now, but I obviously meant JUG not HUG.
My hands, arms, and legs are permanently scraped now I’m climbing outdoors much more. Outside, holds tend to be slots in the rock rather than plastic jutting out from the wall, which means wrists are often mashed against the rock. I’ve started taping them as I’m a wuss!
Need to do a month of campusing I think - been focusing on hangboards for a while so should switch it up. You’ll defo see improvement as long as you avoid injury - once a week on each is a good volume to start with
There’s some really really strong folk up this way - hoping I’m inspired to improve through jealousy!
Christ alive, Alex Honnold has free-soloed El Cap…
Always interesting seeing the reactions of folks who know him well. His head-game is incredible - he just gets totally in the zone and it sounds like, when he’s in that zone, fear just doesn’t affect his performance. Mind-boggling.