Oh no hope it’s not too bad! I’ve had two spills on my gravel bike in the year I’ve had it both on tarmac!

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Bitter irony :wink:

The bike seems absolutely fine at first glance. One slightly loose spoke that I think was already loose to begin with, a slight tear in my new bar tape, a few unsightly scrapes and that’s about it. Wheels aren’t buckled, gears and brakes working as normal, and it felt fine to ride on the 5 mile journey home. My phone, on the other hand, is probably a replacement job. I’ve got free phone insurance through my bank and home & contents insurance too, but I’ve no idea if accidental damage is covered.

Fingers crossed about the phone insurance but better a written off phone than bike!

I’ve got scraped up hoods on each side now but I’ve decided I like them like that!

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Mine are like that too. It shows the bike is well loved :slight_smile:

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Just gave RGT cycling a go, and did the Cap Formentor Route. I liked the realism, both in scenery and ‘handling’ - your wee doppelganger slows for hairpins and roundabouts - and although it was odd cycling on such deserted virtual roads, I guess that’s far more akin to real life too. It was a great route too - I can definitely see the appeal in doing it IRL :slight_smile:

Downsides: it was a lot jerkier than Zwift, even on medium graphics; that’s perhaps because I had to run it on an old, crappy iPhone rather than my much newer (and now dead) Samsung. It also chewed through 60% of the battery life in about 75 minutes, which caused internet drop outs as the phone got critical; I had to eventually stop, get off the bike and plug the phone in (unfortunately out of reach).

Most annoying was the gear changing, which isn’t entirely RGT’s fault. The major downside of a Wattbike is that the gears are push buttons with little tactile action; you don’t get any feel for a gear change until the resistance itself changes, and you’re reliant on the app you’re using to tell you what virtual gear you’re actually in. Zwift talks to the Wattbike and tells me what gear I’m in (1-22) but RGT hasn’t enabled that, so I was having to watch my power & cadence as a proxy for the gear I’m in, and mentally count changes too. Not ideal by any means!

Overall, I enjoyed it a lot but I doubt I’ll use it that often; Zwift seems more versatile and is better suited to my trainer. That said, I’ll definitely give Mont Ventoux a go, and will be keeping an eye on it for new and exciting routes :slight_smile:

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I’ve got a very simple problem with my MTB but all the bike shops around me are backed up with jobs and are not interested in taking my work. They should be lucky to even have jobs at the moment. Very frustrating, can’t find any help online cause I’m not willing to sit through a 20min video that doesn’t even solve my problem

What is the problem?

So I took off the chain and back wheel to pack it and move house. Now the gear sets don’t match what is on the dials. So it’s on the middle set on the spoke but the dial says set 3. I tried moving the chain to match the dial but it makes that noise like it’s on the wrong set. The other set (1-8) is behaving similar.

Also the back wheel is wobbling side to side, not like the wheel is buckled but like something is loose. I’ve tightened the nut+lever that holds it on but it still wobbles.

Hope this makes sense, I’m not the most knowledgeable rider and I also haven’t really looked after this bike much so there’s a chance something is worn out

Sorry if this sounds rude - are you sure the back wheel is back on the bike properly?
Is it fully seated in the dropouts where it should be?

Take the wheel off again, and reinstall, if you’re not sure.

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take the back wheel off. press your levers so that its showing it to be bottom gear, put wheel back on with chain in bottom gear

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I’m pretty sure, yeah. That’s not being rude, I appreciate the help.

when you say bottom gear do you mean 3&8 or 1&1?

If the wheel is in properly and the axle is tight and the wheel is still wobbling then it sounds like the bearings in your back wheel need either adjusting or replacing

You could attempt to fix yourself but honestly I think you should take it to a shop for a service

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it’s like a side to side wobble like something is loose, rather than it wobbling in an off-centered circle if that makes sense. Still, haven’t had a service in 2.5 years so maybe it’s due.

What you describe is exactly what a wheel with lose bearings does, or a wheel that’s not been fitted properly. Don’t worry about the gears until you’ve sorted that out, it’s a secondary issue

If it’s loose bearings, it’s better to pay someone for a service rather than fix it myself right? Especially at my knowledge level. I just don’t want to waste 7 days in a queue for something simple

yes

Ok thanks everyone!

Where (roughly) do you live?

You should pay someone to do it for you. It requires specific tools and a reasonable amount of knowledge. And the tools vary depending on what hubs you have

I would have another go at refitting the wheel yourself just to be sure before you take it to a shop though.

How do - hoping for some pragmatic advice from the cycling community (and haven’t searched upthread or in previous threads). My 14 year old Specialised Hardrock MTB is on deaths’ door and I’m looking at new bikes in a similar (entry level) price bracket of sub-£500. I will be using it for dodgy Norfolk back roads (read potholes) and cycle ways / bridleways (sandy and/or gravelly, not much mud). I’m not going to be going mountain biking, but need front suspension and comfortable grips as I have a dodgy hand (and have to ride with my little finger off the end of the handlebar).

Any thoughts on a good bet? Not very hilly around here and will need to be resilient to being stored outside (but under cover).