#573

should have brought more gas :wink:

1 Like
#574

early peaches lyrics needed work

7 Likes
#575

campin’ in my bivvy like you wanted me

5 Likes
#576

I just had a ride on from the same guy!

1 Like
#577

So wish I’d thought of doing this.

7 Likes
#578

Never come so close to muting a thread I started

#579

why?

#580

Just scrolled through about 50 posts about sleeping bags :joy:

2 Likes
#581

1000% more interesting than zwift chat :wink:

2 Likes
#582

get ready for some pathetic pleas for help instead!

1 Like
#583

:sweat_smile::sob::sob::sob:

I’ll go hide in the pro thread

1 Like
#584

Right!

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I got the bike up on the stand and have so far managed to remove the wheels and a rusty old reflector. Now I am scared to carry on.

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got some better pics of the dropouts - I think it’s 130mm but might have to get a vernier callipers as I think I’ll need them for measuring the cranks/headset too?

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Here’s some pictures of the cranks - do we think I can salvage this front one to make it a single cog?

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The rear wheel seems to be trued normally rather than off to the side to accommodate the cogs so I’m hoping to keep that too - will I need a new hub for it?

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The only other thing I want to do is remove the headset and handlebars and install a straighter stem and flat bars - I can do the brakes etc. but do I need to replace every part of the headset?

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Basically I bought the book pniks recommended and it’s really good BUT it assumes you’re replacing absolutely everything - do I need to get hold of a headset press etc? It’s all lining up to be a bit more expensive than I expected if so, might have to leave the handlebars/brakes for now and replace the little rubber washer that keeps meaning the drops slip down every time I brake which is terrifying

1 Like
#585

soz for the long post but quite a few of you seemed to know loads about conversions when I posted the other day and I have very little idea what I’m doing ha

1 Like
#586

Can you clamp the frame on the seat post rather than top tube?? It’s probably steel and fine where it is but you never know…

1 Like
#587

i can yep, the stand is a bit dogshit (£45 from Halfords) so i just did it on the top tube which is defs steel cos it was a bit wobbly otherwise but I’ll move it now

1 Like
#588

I don’t think you need to replace a headset unless there’s something wrong with it?

You can definitely replace a quill stem without changing a headset. I think…

I don’t know anything about dropouts or hubs or rimming sorry

1 Like
#589

Measure the back wheel hub to find out the spacing rather than the frame - steel frames have quite a bit of flex

1 Like
#590

yeah the headset seems to be absolutely fine, not at all sticky, so that seems like it might be the easiest job in that case

#591

on it!

#592

If you’re going single speed your hub should be fine. It’ll need replacing if you go fixed. (Are you going fixie?)

Can probably get away with the big ring on the front crank, 48T should be fine, you’re London based (ie flat) right? How many teeth on your rear cog?