Really pleased to see the love for Patrick Leigh Fermor here.
Weird coincidence: he started the walk of A Time of Gifts in December 1933; six months later, Laurie Lee set out on As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning. PLF is the more gifted writer, although I always felt slightly annoyed that he seemed to spend half the time in posh parties with aristos, while LL (largely) earned his way across Europe.
My other favourite “travel” writer is Jonathan Raban. He’s got an amazing eye for nature and geography, and the people he meets. In Passage to Juneau, where he sails - something he’s obviously very good at, and the method of travel in many of his books - Alaska’s Inside Passage, he spies that the broken images in the native Americans’ art resembles the broken reflections that he sees constantly on the surface of the water. The first book of his that I read - Bad Land, in which he traces the Montana-Dakota railroad, the settlements alongside that bloomed overnight and just as quickly turned into ghost towns, and more stories from the settlers - blew me away. It’s as good on - say - why the descendants of the people who clung on are so volubly sceptical of government and keen to shout about self-reliance, while also showing the “experts” sometimes have a point. There’s also a lot of prairie oysters and a chilling encounter with locals who follow the same ideas as Timothy McVeigh.
I need to read more Robert Macfarlane. The Old Ways, in which he explores a wide variety of walks, has much more to say about the landscape than the politics of access (or indeed who travels by foot), but the section where he takes an accompanied walk along the Broomway in Essex - a route along sands that is “allegedly the ‘deadliest path’ in Britain” - is unearthly, and the memories of his grandfather, leading up to the funeral, might make you cry.
If anyone’s not read The Lonely City by Olivia Laing, I think they should (to tell the truth, it should be handed out at Euston, King’s Cross and Victoria in a London for beginners pack). I wonder what she’s going to do for the opening of her next book, though. They usually start with her utterly heartbroken, but as she’s getting married soon, she’ll (hopefully) have to find another way to start.
Iain Sinclair’s walks are worth following - London Orbital is the best known, but Edge of the Orison, in which he follows the route John Clare took when he escaped the Essex asylum, verges on poetic.
Lastly, I can’t recommend the scabrous, witty, brutalist genius of Jonathan Meades’s Museum Without Walls enough. Or you could just watch the TV shows… http://meadesshrine.blogspot.co.uk/p/shrine.html