I lived in Vancouver for 7 years, albeit I haven’t been there for a while so some of my favourite spots are no more. Public transit is quite good, hosting the Olympics resulted in a slick new line on the subway system, but even the buses get you most places you’d want to go. This is important because most of the good stuff is away from downtown.
Food:
Before going any further it should first be stated that Vancouver has the best and most diverse Asian food in North America. There are possibly more sushi restaurants there than in all of Europe combined. Chinatown is one place you could start, but there are good Chinese restaurants all over the city, or if you’re hankering for Pho, Korean BBQ, Indonesian etc etc you’ll be well catered for.
Some of my old favourites that apparently are still going:
Sun Bo Kong: vegeterian Chinese (I’m not veggie but used to go here all the time, you can get veggie tripe!).
Hawker’s Delight: Main and King Edward (25th) – Malaysian street food.
Guu: various locations. Japanese tapas.
Naam – a long-running institution in Kitsilano. Vegeterian comfort food.
Café Deux Soleils – Commercial drive for good hangover breakfasts.
Booze:
This is one area where things seem to have moved on a lot since I left. There are now a ton of breweries all over town (but mostly off Main St. and the Commercial drive area). I did go to Storm brewing and 33 Acres on my last trip which were both good.
The Alibi Room is a cool bar that’s downtown-ish that is still going.
Also note that cannabis is now legal in Canada and there are many dispensaries all over the city if you are so inclined.
Coffee:
Lots of good coffee as you’d expect. Again I’m sure there are a bunch of new places that are great, but even the Vancouver chains (JJ Bean, Café Artigiano) dotted around town are very good.
Record shops:
Really the best/only option is Zulu Records on W 4th in Kitsilano. This neighborhood is otherwise worthwhile for a wander, if a bit heartbreakingly precious with the upwardly mobile yoga crowd.
Stuff to do:
I can’t be overstated how beautiful a city it is. On a clear sunny day, down by the water, you would question the sanity of anyone who moved away to go live in the UK… So doing things to take advantage of this fact are probably the most worthwhile.
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Head out to the main UBC campus (99 bus will get you there relatively quickly), walk down the hundreds of steps through a grove of huge Douglas fir trees to Wreck Beach. On a nice warm day it will be quite busy, but it’s so big it won’t feel crowded. Note that it is “clothing optional”, although the nudists are usually in the minority. The Museum of Anthropology on the UBC campus is also very worthwhile, for an overview of the First Nations’ people who have lived in the area for thousands of years. I wouldn’t really bother with any of the other museums in town, unless there is something on at the Vancouver Art Gallery that looks particularly interesting.
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Grouse Mountain is indeed overpriced, but if you’re energetic/masochistic you can walk to the top (aka doin’ the Grouse Grind) for free. It’s also the jumping off point for some relatively serious hikes in the alpine, although there are probably better options for this elsewhere.
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Another outdoorsy option is taking a bus to Deep Cove in North Vancouver and renting kayaks. Again, a beautiful spot.
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It’s a bit touristy, but Granville Island Market is still a fun spot to just wander around, grab a coffee and a sandwich. An alternative to this is taking the SeaBus (part of the public transit network) to North Vancouver and going to the Lonsdale Market.
General neighborhood thoughts:
Commercial Drive – this is where I lived most of my time there. A mix of Little Italy and dirty hippies. Lots of places to eat and drink.
Mount Pleasant/South Main – where the cool kids hang out. Also lots of places to eat and drink.
Gastown – part of downtown, all the tourists seem to end up here. Not completely terrible for food options actually.
Chinatown/Strathcona – things get a little “interesting” the further east you go (the heroin capital of North America) but it’s still worth a wander.
Yaletown – where all the people with money go out, but there are still some good places here (south part of downtown).
West End – also part of the downtown peninsula. Davie street is/was the gay village (possibly been watered down over the years). English Bay beach is yet another beautiful spot. Keep heading west and you’ll find even more giant trees in Stanley Park.