#554

Oh, okay. Yeah, just put the radio on or something and work your way through it. It’ll take you a day or two per door.

1 Like
#555

I liked the part where @marckee thought you were sanding 180 doors.

6 Likes
#556

Pretty much every morning on our bedroom we wake up to this on the window:

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We keep the window vented and have the heater on. It’s about 20-22°c in there at all times.

Last year when we had our hall and spare room ceilings plastered we had a condensation issue in this room with water hitting the walls and appearing to drip down from the ceiling. It cleared up after a few days. However, this morning we awoke to:

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IMG_20181214_075025
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Wtf? No plastering going on this time. We don’t dry anything in this room. It’s all damp on the bottom of the wall and in that corner. He heater is on, the thermometer in the room says 21°.

#557

We bought a small dehumidifier recently and it’s mostly sorted all of this stuff. And keeping the bathroom window open when showering

#558

I’d try a dehumidifier

If you don’t want to spend money yet you could get a cheap digital humidity reader thing from Amazon to see how humid it is in there

But TBH I would just buy a dehumidifier anyway as they are handy for drying washing

1 Like
#559

We got this. Worth a punt at £60 before you start getting people in

#560

In the top photo, is that condensation on the inside face of the pane, or in between the two panes of glass?

The second image doesn’t look like condensation alone to me - you’d expect it to be more even and less streaky, plus you’d see some on the ceiling too. Are you sure that you haven’t got a failure on the external fabric (eg canopy flashing, mortar joint) in that location?

The bottom photo does look like condensation. As others have suggested, a dehumidifier would be worth trying.

#561

+1 on the dehumidifier advice. Our apartment has a horrible damp problem and running the dehumidifier does help with the moisture problem on the walls and windows.

#562

Another vote for Davidoff Cool J-Lew Meaco Dehumidifier.

I can’t offer guarantees on the wall stuff (haven’t really suffered with that, and would be following up as per marckee’s queries), but we’ve noticed a removal of minor window condensation, and clothes have been air-drying much quicker.

#563

The pull cord switch that controls power to the electric shower has broken. Won’t turn back on. Have tried turning the switch at the fuse box off and on again

  • This is something a complete idiot can fix themselves
  • Get an electrician in

0 voters

#564

Reclaimed scaffold boards as shelving

  • Exclusively for dickheads
  • Mostly for dickheads but get them anyway

0 voters

#565

Does it still feel like the switch is “switching”. If not then you could just get a new cord and fitting and fitting it would be pretty simple. If you can get hold of a circuit tester then the obvious step would be to switch the power off at the fuse box, unscrew the fitting to expose the wire connections, reconnect the power and carefully check the flow between live and neutral terminals. If that fails you’ve got a problem for an electrician (assuming you haven’t just blown a fuse).

#566

The sound proof mats I want to get will add 80 stone to the floor, that’s probably fine?

#567

Depends on the floor area. The joists will be sized and spaced to be able to take a maximum load per m2.

#568

It’s 28m square ish

#569

Is the 80 stone total weight, or weight per mat or weight per square metre?

#570

That load’s going to be over 40 stone per square metre at least though isn’t it?

#571

Total, 20 kg per 1.2 m2

#572

That’s about an extra 18kg/m2, or an additional 0.18Kn/m2.

It’ll be fine - domestic floors are designed to take up to 1.5kN/m2 with big safety factors.

1 Like
#573

Cheers