#1318

Sounds good! Only other thing is if you want more sockets on the walls. This is dead easy to do when it’s a blank canvas.

#1319

Built a new chicken coop yesterday which is more like a small shed (probably $2000/mo in NYC amiright?!) - the err pointy top roof bit was broken (has a name but can’t think what). Not a massive drama, just stuck a couple of nails in it and glued it back together… but it was missing all of the little divider slats which separate the boxes the hens sleep in. Double, triple-checked, definitely not in any of the boxes.

Company want a photo of them after I said they weren’t included, so they’ve got lots of photos from me holding up nothing in various spots round the farm. “Me and my divider by the pond (divider not included)” etc.

Could literally replace the pieces in about two minutes with a saw and some ply, but THATS NOT THE POINT.

So far their suggested option was to return the whole thing at my expense which I’ve already built and wait for another one (and then build that).

2 Likes
#1320

tell them to get fucked and to ship you out the missing part.

Coop Company? More like POOP Company

1 Like
#1321

I sent a rant to a company that asked me for photos like this. I ordered loads of different types of garlic as part ofa Xmas present and half of it was completely rotten. When garlic is rotten you don’t have to cut it open to know, it stinks the whole place out. They wanted photos but only replied 2 weeks later. As if I’m keeping some stinking rotten food in my house in the hope you’ll actual reply. Piss off mates. Told them they should have faith in customers rather than imply they’re living and they refunded me.

Wasn’t there a joe lycett thing about photos of a missing product?

1 Like
#1322

ActuaLOL at this.

5 Likes
#1323

Ha, some customer service drones (I, and I’m sure many of us, have been there) just either don’t engage brain or won’t deviate from the flowchart of Company Ltd’s complaints procedure.

We do weekly BigShop on a Monday, can’t think what it was we bought but a day after we noticed it was absolutely rancid. Might have been a smoothie - that had congealed :nauseated_face:. Now no one’s driving back just for a £1.49 drink, so took it back the following Monday like… look!

Weren’t having it “well it’s a week old” YES BUT IT WASN’T THEN.

A colleague overheard and was just like scan-beep-beep “sorry, we’ve taken that off your shopping this week, refunded it, and here’s a voucher for another one” in less than the time it took me to type this. :sweat_smile:

2 Likes
#1324

Sanded one of the kitchen worktops down - bought a cabinet scraper and it made such a difference. A much quicker job and got through hardly any sanding pads. Bought some nice hard wax oil too, rather than using the left over Danish oil with the lid that always jams closed.

Annoyingly, it now looks really good and has made the other one look really shit. And the other one has the sink and hob cut into it, so has loads of narrow bits I can’t get to with the scraper. One for 2022 I reckon. (pops feet up and admires handiwork).

#1325

Might not be that difficult to remove the sink and hob to make it an easier job.

#1326

Did consider that. The bit between the worktop and the hob is pretty manky too… Just so very lazy.

#1327

Looks like efflorescence (salts leaching through to the surface), usually caused when the wall and then plaster get damp, then evaporate off.

It’s a bit tricky to diagnose the origin from here, but this might help:

https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/efflorescence-causes-and-cures.htm#:~:text=Efflorescence%20on%20plaster%20can%20cause,they%20"blow"%20the%20plaster.

Re. Kitchen works: get your plumbing and electrics sorted before the new units go in, especially as you’re going for an IKEA kitchen and they don’t have a service void behind the cabinets. If you’re putting in an induction hob, don’t forget that you may need to upgrade your power supply to it.

Personally, I would tile the floor before the new units go in and tile right up to the walls, but I know that a lot of people just tile up to the units after they’ve gone in. It doesn’t make too much difference, but can look neater if you’ve got recesses for appliances, or want the floating unit look.

1 Like
#1328

Ta. Found a fitter who used to work as an IKEA fitter and now does full installations so he’s going to come and quote for it this weekend. Hopefully that will make life easier with fewer contractors to juggle. As above the sink and oven are staying in basically the same place so hopefully the gas/water will be pretty straightforward

#1329

Anyone got any experience of those hive smart trv valves?

#1330

If I wanted to connect a hose to my kitchen mixer tap, what connector/adapter would I need please?

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#1331

That looks like an awkward tap to do it with. Can you use a bathroom tap instead, with something like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rubber-connector-kitchen-within-18-22MM/dp/B01DM1NORE

#1332

If there was a gap like this between your skirting board and floor in your conservatory what sort of draught measures would you take? I’m think some sort of pvc tape, any recommendations?

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#1333

Couldn’t you just caulk it?

#1334

Could you fit an outside tap? It’s not particularly difficult. Or £50 for a plumber to do

#1335

Those adapters aren’t very reliable. In my experience

#1336

Possibly but in rental accommodation comprising of detached house split into two flats with my neighbour on ground floor, so would need to tap into our water supply somehow. Would also need HA permission I guess but that should be okay.

1 Like
#1337

Potentially but I figured it’s quite wide in places and it’s a big conservatory so I had hoped some sort of strip might work better.